DOES HOME DELIVERY COST MORE?
Many route delivery services will advertise, “Free Delivery!”. What this really means is that the cost of delivery is included in the price.
To determine if a delivery service is truly free, compare the delivered price to the price of what you’re currently doing.
At Carriage Cleaners, the regular price is the same for both store and route customers.
The only difference is the availability of discounts. (compare discount pages)
The convenience of home delivery and monthly billing save you time and travel.
Many delivery services are independent drivers who pick-up your garments and sub-contract with a local cleaner. You often do not know who that cleaner is.
At Carriage Cleaners, we do the work ourselves in our own dry-cleaning and laundry plant.
Our store is in Maple Plain and we deliver to homes and business in the Lake
If you would like a Carriage Cleaners route driver to pick-up your cleaning, we’re sure you’ll
find that our route service is competitively priced, reliable and a good value.
Whether you’re a route customer or a store customer, we will appreciate your business and do our best to give you excellent service.
Check our web site: www.mycarriagecleaners.com for additional information
DOESN’T PICK-UP AND DELIVERY COST MORE? NO!
-Our delivered prices are the same as our over-the-counter prices.
DON’T I NEED TO BE A REGULAR USER OF DRY CLEANING SERVICES? NO!
-We offer ON-DEMAND service regardless of how often you send.
-Twice-a-week OR Twice-a-year, WE WANT YOUR BUSINESS!
ARE DISCOUNTS AVAILABLE TO ROUTE CUSTOMERS? YES!
-Check out our “Route Discounts” page for details.
HOW DO I GET STARTED?
-Call / Text the route driver, Larry, at 612-799-6416
Removing Water-Based Stains at Home
It’s a good practice to test the colorfastness of a fabric by applying a small amount of the spotting solution to an inconspicuous area of the garment and dabbing
with a white towel to see if any color transfers to the towel.
Most water-based stains fall into one of two catagories:
Protein-based stains are primarily stains that come from
people or animals, such as, blood, urine,
perspiration, etc. These require removal
With a protein solution. (Ph is alkaline)
Tannin-based stains are primarily stains that come from plants,
such as, coffee, wine, juice, etc. These
require removal with a tannin solution. (Ph is acidic)
Tools: -Protein Solution - 1 Tblsp. of ammonia in 1/2 cup water.
-Tannin Solution - 1/3 cup of white vinegar in 2/3 cup of water.
-Mild liquid detergent to lubricate stain.
-Brush (medium stiff) to tamp, not scrub, the stain.
-Eye-dropper to apply spotting solutions.
-Chlorine Bleach and Oxy-Clean Bleach.
Use: -Lubricate stain with a few drops of detergent.
-Apply appropriate spotting solution and tamp with a brush.
-Re-apply spotting solution and allow time for it to work.
(Protein stains break-down much faster than Tannin stains)
-Rinse area and repeat if necessary.
-Wash as usual.
-Stubborn stains on white fabrics can be spot-bleached with
a 50/50 mixture of Chlorine Bleach and Water.
Do not allow bleach to remain on fabric for more than
2 minutes. Flush with water, apply Tannin Solution
to remove excess chlorine, and flush with water again.
Do not use Chlorine on silk, wool or spandex!
-Stubborn stains on light to medium colored fabrics can
usually be removed by soaking overnight in your
washer with warm water and Oxy-Clean powdered
bleach. Oxy-Clean can be found at most stores that
sell laundry detergents. It’s less aggressive than
chlorine but takes longer to work.
-Consult the “care label” prior to deciding to purchase the garment.
-Be sure you know what will be required to clean the garment?
-Decorated garments are High-Risk and have a much shorter service-life.
-Moderately priced garments are more highly distributed and more likely to have undergone
testing for clean-ability.
-Many high-end garments are not expected to be frequently worn or cleaned. Therefore, price does not always guarantee long-term serviceability.
-Avoid purchasing garments far from home. If there’s a problem, they’re difficult to return.
-Larger retailers are more likely to accept returns than are the specialty shops.
-Does the care label make mention of the decoration? We often see garments that
have had decorations added after the care label was attached.
-Glued on decorations are rarely dry-cleanable, even if the label calls for dry-cleaning. Glues are usually solvent-based and dissolve during cleaning.
Deterioration can be immediate or progressive.
-Sequins are sometimes painted and lose their color during cleaning.
-Beads can soften, become cloudy, lose their shape, partially dissolve and transfer to
adjacent areas, or dissolve completely in dry-cleaning fluid.
-Reflective (mirror-like) trim can have the shiny coating oxidize and lose it’s reflectivity.
-Loose threads are the most common problem of trimmed garments. The trim is often
attached with a “chain stitch” which, when broken, accelerates trim loss.
-“Painted-on” designs are rarely dry-cleanable.
-“Hand washing” of decorated garments or taking them to a “specialty” dry-cleaner
is sometimes recommended.
5416 Highway 12,
Maple Plain, MN 55359
FOR ROUTE SERVICE
CALL LARRY @
- The FTC (federal trade commission) is the government agency that establishes
the requirements for care labels.
- Garments must have a care label attached in order to be sold in the United States .
- The care-label must provide complete instructions about regular care for the garment.
- The label must warn against any procedures, consistent with the prescribed cleaning
method, that would cause harm to the product. (ex.– do not iron, cover buttons, etc.)
- The manufacturer must have reliable evidence to support the care instructions.
- The manufacturer must ensure that the recommended care procedure will not cause
harm to the garment.
- Non-detachable components must be able to withstand the recommended care
procedure described on the label.
- PLEASE - do not remove the care label. Your cleaner uses it and depends on it.
COMMON CAUSES OF DAMAGE TO GARMENTS
-Hairspray and other hair treatments are the most common causes of damage.
This damage is usually not noticeable until after cleaning.
Hairspray spots can become darker and/or appear as color-loss.
Cover your shoulders with a towel when using these products to prevent
them from contacting the fabric.
-Household cleaners (including dish soaps) often contain alcohol, bleaches and other
alkali’s that can damage fabrics and colors.
-Toothpaste almost always contains a “whitening” agent that causes color-loss.
-Insects such as moths, silverfish, crickets and others feed on spots on your clothing.
The damage they cause is often unnoticeable until the agitation of cleaning
flushes away the damaged yarns. Clean your clothing before storage.
-Swimming Pool Water contains sufficient levels of chlorine to cause color damage.
-Perspiration is particularly damaging to silk. So are many deodorants & antiperspirants.
Dry-Cleaning vs. Laundering
The Machinery and Process of dry-cleaning is similar to that of laundering.
-Both processes use a front-loading machine which fills with liquid and tumbles the clothing
in a rotating wheel to mechanically remove the soils from the clothes.
-Both processes use detergents which are designed to keep the removed soils suspended in the
liquid so that the soils do not re-deposit on the clothes before they can be flushed-away.
The primary differences are;
-the liquids used,
-how those liquids dispose of the soils,
-how the clothing is dried after the wash-cycle.
-In Laundering, the liquid is water and is very effective on water-based stains such as sugar,
blood and beverages. However, it is not effective on solvent-based stains such as
oils and greases.
-In Dry-cleaning, the liquid is a solvent and is very effective on solvent-based stains such as
oils and greases. However, it is not effective on water-based stains such as sugar,
blood and beverages.
-In Laundering, the soil-laden wash-water is put down the sanitary sewer as is the water from
the following rinse cycles.
-In Dry-Cleaning, the soil-laden dry-cleaning solvent circulates between a filtration system
and the wash-wheel to remove the soils from the solvent as it’s washing.
The solvent is further purified by distilling it.
-In Laundering, the clothes are transferred to a dryer where heated air evaporates the water from
the clothes and the moisture-laden air is vented to the outside atmosphere.
-In Dry-Cleaning, the clothes remain in the wash-wheel where heated air evaporates the solvent
from the clothes and then passes this solvent-laden air over a cooling coil to condense
(and re-capture) the solvent. The cooled air is then reheated and passed again through
the wheel until the clothes are dry. (this is called a closed-loop system)
Four factors affecting successful storage:
1. Cleaning. Never store your garments without cleaning them first.
Don’t be fooled by the lack of obvious stains. Many substances dry
clear but discolor with age.
2. Storage Bags. Never store your garments for long periods in the plastic
bags that come from the retailer or your dry-cleaner.
These bags are only intended to protect them during transport.
3. Light. Protect your stored garments from sources of light. Light can fade
colors, turn whites yellow, and even weaken the fibers in some
4. Humidity and Temperature. Humidity is the primary concern, but the
temperature of the air determines the humidity level. .
Since garments must be able to breathe in order to avoid the build-up
of moisture in the fibers, never store your garments in the plastic
bags that they come in after they’ve been cleaned.
LIFE EXPECTANCY OF SHIRTS
-What’s a reasonable life expectancy of shirts?
- The life expectancy of any shirt has been determined to be approximately 2 years.
- This time period was established by testing done by the International Fabricare Institute.
- According to IFI testing, shirts experience problems after about 35 wearings & washings.
- If you wear a shirt regularly, you will wear it 2-3 times per month.
-This is equal to 48-72 wearings and washings over this 2 year period.
-Starch use is a significant factor in shortening the life-span of dress shirts for 2 reasons.
-First, starching leaves the shirt in a slightly acidic condition. This is necessary to offset
the tendency of starched shirts to scorch (turn yellow/brown) during pressing.
-Second, the stiffness of a starched shirt increases the effects of abrasion around the
edges of the collar and cuffs and causes accelerated wear in those areas.
-After using a shirt for months, it can be difficult to remember exactly how old the shirt is.
-It’s helpful if you use a permanent marker to write inside the shirt (where it will not show)
the month & year that the shirt was purchased.
-The age/condition of a shirt can be reasonably ascertained by observing the amount of
wear along the edges of the cuffs and the edge of the collar.
-Shirts that have holes worn through in either of these areas can be assumed to be beyond
their 2-year life expectancy.
-To determine the value of a damaged shirt, follow the link below.
WHAT ABOUT SPOTS?
-A spot is what I have when I drop food on a fabric.
-A stain is what I have when the food is removed but it has caused the fabric to
reflect light differently. (similar to dyeing)
-Do Not put anything on a spot.
-Gently Dab (don’t rub) to remove the excess substance,
-Putting water on a spot decreases the dry-cleaner’s chances of successfully
removing the spot (without leaving a stain) by at least 50%.
-Putting water, club soda, hairspray, etc. on a spot can cause color-loss,
leave permanent rings/stains, and create more problems than it can solve.
-NEVER RUB SILK WHEN IT’S WET! IT WILL cause a bruise.
What actually happens is that the surface fibers break when rubbed
and the agitation during cleaning causes these broken fibers to stand-up
and untwist. This is similar to the fraying of torn jeans when they’re washed.
This bruise appears as a light area that looks like color-loss.